The Arkansas Delta

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By Sandy Butler Hughes
Photography by Mike Klemme and Tom Smith

Needing a little break from the regular routine, but not much time to travel far? A jaunt to the Arkansas Delta is the ideal getaway. For a day trip or an overnight stay, there is much to see and do with time to relax. We crossed the “old bridge” heading into Arkansas, and in less than 45 minutes we arrived at our first stop, the picturesque tiny town of Wilson.

The first impression is striking. Wilson’s beautifully restored Tudor-style buildings surround the town square in “America’s Village.” The hub of the community is the Wilson Cafe. More than simply a restaurant, the café serves as a social center. The exceptional farm-to-table cuisine is fabulous, and the robust menus feature local ingredients that change with the seasons. The wine list is exceptional, and the craft cocktails are not to be missed. When the bartender realized someone in our party was celebrating a birthday, she quickly surprised her with a Birthday Cake Martini.

A stroll across the square from the cafe is the award-winning boutique Louis Hotel. Located inside the town’s restored historic administration building, The Louis is a blend of Delta history and modern luxury. Our accommodations were fantastic - elegant yet cozy. The lounge is contemporary without feeling out of place, and again the bartender was skilled and attentive. It was a rare cool night in August, and the staff turned on the firepits so we could enjoy a nightcap on the rooftop. Everything at The Louis is a notch above, from the guest rooms with premium linens made from locally-grown cotton to the perfect service provided by friendly staff.

A trip to Wilson would not be complete without shopping at White's Mercantile. It is owned by Holly Williams, granddaughter of country music legend Hank Williams, and has become a destination all its own. Beautifully curated with home décor, gourmet foods, artisan gifts, books, clothing, candles, and more, the shop holds a little bit of everything. The Wilson Pharmacy (an actual working pharmacy) also has a great selection of gifts and specialty items. Mississippi River Expeditions, owned by Matthew Burdine and headquartered in Memphis, has an outpost on the Wilson Square. Capitalizing on river access, the substantially large, multiperson canoes offer a guided perspective for exploring the Mississippi River.

The Wilson Motor Club, next door to The Louis, is expected to open soon, and will be home to an incredible collection of classic cars. One of Arkansas' hidden treasures is also housed on the Wilson Square - the Hampson Archeological Museum. It displays thousands of artifacts telling the story of the Nodena people, who flourished in the Mississippi Delta 1450-1600 A.D. It is free and worth a visit.

One factor consistent throughout Wilson: everyone from the shop clerk at White’s to the attendants at The Louis provide extraordinary service. Friendly, accommodating, and helpful, they make sure your visit to Wilson is exceptional…and that you want to come back.

Just a short drive from Wilson is Dyess. The Dyess Colony was one of President Franklin D. Roosevelt's New Deal agricultural resettlement communities established during the Great Depression. Most famously and the reason it is a pilgrimage for music fans, Dyess was the home of Johnny Cash. The beautifully restored Johnny Cash Boyhood Home is where the legendary "Man in Black" lived from 1935-1950, and the modest farmhouse is preserved much as it was during his childhood. His early life in Dyess was his foundation and inspired many of his greatest songs.

The Johnny Cash Boyhood Home is an Arkansas State University Heritage Site, and ASU restored and manages several sites throughout the Arkansas Delta. Other sites include Lakeport Plantation in Lake Village, the Hemingway-Pfeiffer Museum in Piggott, and our next stop, the Southern Tenant Farmers Museum in Tyronza.

The Southern Tenant Farmers Museum is located in the historic Tyronza Bank building where the Southern Tenant Farmers Union was founded in 1934, during the era Johnny’s family was farming. The museum tells the story of sharecroppers - both Black and white - who united to fight for fair wages, dignity, and workers' rights. The small but powerful Museum helps explain the struggles and resilience of so many farmers.

With numerous festivals, live music, farmers markets, wine tastings, canoe trips, writers conferences, a top-rated golf course, and more, there is something for everyone in the Arkansas Delta. Map your route along the Great River Road, put on a roadtripping-soundtrack of Johnny and Rosanne (and maybe some Black Oak Arkansas too!), and in less than an hour from Downtown, you’ve made a great escape.
SEPTEMBER 19, JONESBORO: SUNKEN LANDS
SONGWRITING CIRCLE
This intimate show is part concert and part storytelling with
Rosanne Cash, Rhett Miller, Ruthie Foster, and John Leventhal;
the annual event is a fundraiser for the Dyess Colony and Johnny
Cash Boyhood Home held on the ASU campus. astate.edu

SEPTEMBER 26, WILSON: COTTONFEST
Free, family-friendly event with live music, a traditional lowcountry
shrimp boil, local arts and vendors, kids' activities, and
college football. wilsonarkansas.com

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Share A World Away in Less than an Hour: The Arkansas Delta